Stone Fruit Salad Tree Information

Stone Fruit Salad Trees grow different Stone fruits together on 1 Tree!  

Fruits in our Stone fruit range include: Peaches (Yellow and White), Apricots, Plums (Blood and Yellow), Nectarines (Yellow and White) and Peachcots.  


Good news, there is a Stone Fruit Salad Tree suitable for all Australian Climates.

To check your climate and the suitability of Stone Fruits for your area, click on our Climate Map and/or see the Variety Information Table below.

In general,  Tropical / Warm / Temperate climates can grow the tropical varieties of Stone fruits . Cold climates can grow any of the Stonefruit varieties. See your Climate zone map for area specific details.


We choose both warm and cold climate Stonefruit varieties that are sweet, juicy and best for eating.

The varieties of Stonefruit we use on our trees are:

  • Plums - Satsuma (Blood), Yarrahappini (Blood), Gulf Gold (Yellow)
  • Nectarines - Sunwright (Yellow), White Satin (White)
  • Apricots - Glengary
  • Peaches - Flordaprince (Yellow),Tropical Snow (White)
  • Peachcot - cross of Peach/Apricot 

Variety Information Table
Fruit Name Flesh Colour Climate Code Sets Fruit Description
Nectarine White Satin White Warm to Cold NW Nov-Dec

White fleshed nectarine with a smooth red over white skin. Super sweet with low acid levels.

Nectarine Sunwright Yellow Warm to Cold NY Oct-Nov

Smooth skinned nectarine with a yellow, slightly soft, juicy flesh and sweet flavour. Semi-clingstone, small to medium in size. Due to the low chill hours of this fruit it is a great choice for warmer climates. Very early fruiting.

Peach Tropic Snow White Warm to Cold PW Dec-Jan White, non browning flesh variety. A freestone round peach, medium to large size, creamy white skin, outstanding flavour.
Peach Flordaprince Yellow Warm to Cold PY Dec

A medium sized round fruit that is aromatic with a golden flesh that is sweet and juicy. Great for eating and preserving. Due to the low chill hours of this fruit it is a great choice for warmer climates. Earliest fruiting peach.

Peachcot Peachcot Rich Orange Tropical to Cold  PC Jan-Feb Firmer flesh with a sweeter and less tart flavour than an Apricot; Beautiful pale pink blossoms in Spring. Botanically a peach but the fruit is small and orange looking more like an Apricot.
Apricot Glengarry Yellow Temperate to Cold, not north of Bris on coast. A Jan-Feb Small pale golden fruit, with heavy cropping. Nice colouring and tasty flavour.
Plum Satsuma Blood Temperate to Cold S Nov-Dec Popular freestone plum with a lovely red-purple flesh; Sweet with slight tartness: great for eating, stewing and jam making. Vigorous grower that fruits well, best to thin fruiting for larger growth. 
Plum Yarrahapinni Blood Tropical to Cool Y Dec-Jan A self-pollinating variety with deep red foliage and striking pink blossoms in Spring; dark coloured flesh that is juicy and sweet.
Plum Gulf Gold Yellow Tropical to Cool G Jan-Feb

Firm golden flesh plum with excellent flavour and texture. This variety bears bountiful amounts of fruit and only has a small seed.






Tree Height

Growing in the Ground.

The mature height of stone fruit trees in the ground is about 3 meters tall and, and about 2.5 meters wide. Stone fruit trees can be also grown by espalier method to save space, or in "stand alone" position.

Growing in a Pot

When growing in a pot, the size of tree will be determined by the size of the pot. E.g. in a half wine barrel pot, the tree would reach about half the 'in ground' size.

Do I need to prune my tree in winter?

Apart from the continual pruning for shape and balance, apply annual pruning to Stone Fruit Trees in early winter. Prune 1/3 (young tree) to 1⁄2 (mature tree) of the current year's growth, remembering to cut above an outward bud. The colour of the bark will indicate the amount of growth for the last season (usually lighter green or brown than the darker older wood from previous years growth).

Do I need to spray my tree?

It is most important to spray the tree for prevention of the disease 'Leaf Curl'At Leaf Fall i.e. autumn (by early May - remove the leaves if not yet fallen), spray thoroughly with Lime Sulphur (available at Bunnings etc) apply twice, about a week apart.Use a Copper spray, adding a few drops of dishwashing liquid, at bud swell (before bud burst), when the tree is beginning to 'wake up' from dormancy. This can be as early as June! Do this twice, about a week apart.

How often should I water my tree?

Keep your tree moist at all times, watering more often during the hotter months. A good layer of mulch promotes a more consistent moisture level. Weekly deep watering is best, i.e. leave hose on trickle overnight. This promotes a deeper root development for the tree, rather than surface watering. Reduce watering habits for dormant trees during the winter months. 

When should I fertilise my tree?

Fertilise 2 to 3 times a year! APPLY late winter, early summer and Early Autumn. Cow or animal manure (older is better) and compost are excellent fertilisers. Otherwise suggestions would be: a slow release fertiliser (Osmocote with added trace elements) mixed into the soil, Blood and Bone, Dynamic Lifter or equivalent. No more than one or two of these fertilisers to each application. From time to time kitchen scraps can be added under the mulch to attract earthworms (If no dogs are about!).

Note: When using fertilisers, keep from direct contact with trunk of the tree. And top up mulch when required. 

What are the sun requirements for my tree?

Best to place in position with full day sun or a minimum of half day, sheltered from wind if possible.

When will my tree bear fruit?

First fruits will appear in approximately 6 - 18 months. It's best to remove most of these fruits when they are the size of a tiny pea and allow the framework (branches) of all the grafts to develop first. This is especially important whilst the tree is young. As the tree grows, thin out/reduce the amount of fruit that has set, always promoting branch growth as well as fruit production. Branch framework needs to be ahead of fruit production to carry the weight of the fruit and establish correct tree shape. More fruit may be allowed to set on any faster growing grafts however, as the fruit production will slow the growth of the branches. Always reduce the number of fruit on the slower growing varieties to allow more energy to go into developing the branches. 

Can I espalier my tree?

All our trees can be espaliered. This method saves space and is especially helpful for apple and nashi trees as it provides extra support for heavy cropping. Attach the branching sideways along wires or framework. Secure branches with expandable ties to allow expansion as the branches grow.

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